Tag: history

  • The Killing Fields

    The Killing Fields

    Stepping out of the minibus I staggered trying to stamp my feet on the side of the road, exhaust fumes and dust swirled as the bus left me, the four or was it five hours scrunched up at the back had cut the blood supply to my legs and now I was  stumbling like an…

  • Cyanotypes & The Graves of Poets

    Cyanotypes & The Graves of Poets

    Standing in the cold lifeless air of Westminster Abbey, surrounded by marble morbidity, the good and great and privileged interred at every turn, monarchs at the head of the table and poets consigned to a dim corner, and there, amid the flag stones of the nave lie the mortal remains of Charles Darwin, a three…

  • The Worst Best Hotel in the Middle East

    The Worst Best Hotel in the Middle East

    The boy looked at me incredulously, his face glancing from me to the bath-tub and back to me again;”beera”? He questioned again looking at the chipped enamel tub. I seem to have given him the impression I wanted to bathe in beer, there was a brief moment of silence while we both considered the possibilities,…

  • Thesiger, Me and Mesopotamia

    Thesiger, Me and Mesopotamia

    Wilfred Thesiger died the summer of 2003, the same year I moved to Damascus, I remember hearing the news on the BBC World Service while living in one up one down hovel in the Old City. For those familiar with his life and work its probably no great surprise that his was a source of…

  • Hasankeyf; The soon to be lost city in Anatolia

    Hasankeyf; The soon to be lost city in Anatolia

    God spoke to Noah commanding him to save his family, build an Ark and take the animals – the flood was coming, Earth needed to be cleansed. The well-known story is related in Judaism, Christianity and Islam, and finding the Ark and proving the story true an eternal quest. Noah reputedly hailed from Mesopotamia, and…

  • Uncertain times for Istanbul’s Christians during Turkey’s ‘modernisation’ drive

    Recent work with writer Stephen Starr for the Irish Times